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  • Writer's pictureVoita

A crash-out

Said good byes. Promised to call, erm, come back, if the Indian overlords deem me worthy.

Back on the bus, got a seat before an entire middle school boarded few stops later.

leaving Gya

Southern Ladakh looks a whole lot like giant sandwich filled with grinding wheels which would've struck Ladakh sideways, leaving only the rugged ridges peaking up above the ground like an artistic formation of a shark gang.

With absolute lack of anything green these are literal layers of history, one colourful layer after another and in raising sun they seem to be on fire.

drew quite the crowd

It's a sad thing to note that this stuffed up bus ride was the highlight of the day.

Ladakhi layers

The Leh visa office, to keep everyone entertained, is not in Leh. I'm sure the clerks have a running bet how late the summoned foreigners will be and guess if they walked, hitchhiked or cab'd the 10 miles.

I took cab and racked up a 10 minute delay. Enough to fail a job interview, far above local standard. Not that anyone would care.

I had to sign my application. Someone is taking a massive piss out of me, sat somewhere in a stuffed up office in Delhi.

Send me another email few hours later specifically asking for a flight ticket out, "when would you like to leave the country"? I may have scared a few unfortunate dogs with my rather vocal opinion on that.

line to pay the bus after getting off

A friend of mine came in clutch with a letter for the Pakistani government, for the other visa. You obviously have to use VPN in India, to access Pakistani websites. But while using a VPN, you cannot use your card for online payments... what a lovely Catch 22, isn't it? Family for the rescue...

green triangle of Stok village and "cancelled" 20Kft peak Stok Kangri


Leh to Manali valley

8 days on the visa - any flight out is $100+, busing it over to Nepal costs half but 2-3 days of time. Plus $50 for their visa.

Pakistani visa took about 4 working days the last time to get approved.

Overstaying, apparently, is charged with $300, even though I found some sources claiming it's free for less than 15 days.

China and Bhutan are out of question, Bangladesh would work, but it's another day past Nepal in public transport to reach their border...

There's only one solution.

Bollywood cafe, Choglamsar

The weekend Tso Moriri climbing plan fell through, with Wild Siddharta changing his heart and ambitions once again. I call him wild for a good reason. Well, at least I'll have the opportunity to rot in civilization until some decision takes shape regarding my future.

New new new plan is to join the other Siddharta for a daring quad-set of 20K ft peaks in area near to the lake.

Time is ticking, money is running, winter is coming and the struggle against bureaucracy has never been more real.

seen so many of these it's essentially a mainstream

but the biker is a chill dude :)

Stok Kangri wishing good night

PSA.: Climber Siddharta is leaving next week for Delhi, to start his application process for Argentina. His estimate is a month and a half of filling in, translating and processing forms, with few rounds of interviews to the boot.

An old, communist-era Czech wisdom bids you to run for the hills when any uniformed person appears on the horizon.

It still applies.

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