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  • Writer's pictureVoita

Nindam expedition day 3

Siddhart left me his sleeping bag and I slept under the stars like a baby, only waking up as the sun kissed me a good morning. After two seasons of sleeping exclusively outside, this was an amazing reminder of what am I missing out on, by staying in teahouses and hostels this year. So long as the weather is agreeable, this should be my base.


It's a slow morning, as Arjun with Siddhart the Climber are shaking off yesterday's adventure. Giving them time to recover is not only a nice thing to do, but also a matter of self-preservation as Siddhart is our driver.

And so we chill and take it easy, at the cost of the other Siddhart, waiting for us in the village. I'm pretty sure that in his position I'd have hitchhiked out early in the morning, but he's local, and waits.


We start down the mountain at ten and not too long after meet an old friend of Siddhart's coming to meet us half way, with tea and rotis. Who'd resist a refreshing break among yaks, yak poop, green hills and last views of the mountain?

It's one o'clock when we make it down to the village, and retire to the local friend's house for a nice thali.

Originally, that's when we thought we'd be back back in Leh. We tried.

not really


By two o'clock we're good to go and collect poor, waiting Siddhart. There's a bit more bickering over times and what could've been, but overall I think everyone is pretty happy that we made it up and down again, and are on our way back.

missed homestay

bye, Nindam (on the left)

I sleep most of the way as usual, only managing to wake up when we stop for Arjun to take pictures of various landmarks we had to miss on our way there. Hitting traffic on the way to town, we pull back as the sun goes down.

The Wild Siddhart is vegan - still a rare sight in modern India, sort of like the west twenty years ago. The novelty scares people away and opens him to endless teasing. And shunning when we go out for celebratory dinner.

There clearly are vegan options, but Siddhart prefers to eat in peace...

Lamayuru / Moonland

confluence of Indus and Zanskar

back by Raybo's Byron

I move back to Raybo, which by now I consider my base and second home in the area.

It's still busy, but most occupants are now Indian. As the marathon ran its course on Sunday, majority of international guests has left and with their exodus the local summer tourist season has drawn to a close.

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